It was a cool autumn night as I approached Tazé Mediterranean Cuisine. First opened in late 2010, I hadn’t yet been but had wanted to try it out. I notice immediately that both downstairs and upstairs was bustling with diners, which is an achievement on a solemnly quiet Monday night in Canberra when most restaurants don’t bother opening.
I’m seated promptly on one of the many sunken, cushioned booths. The room is dotted with lanterns and has a very warm atmosphere, from the brown and red hues throughout to the mouth-watering aromas from the kitchen and acoustic Mediterranean guitar playing softly in the background.
Glancing through the menu I notice that there are several gluten free and vegetarian menu options. I also notice the variety of dishes, as what is a predominantly Turkish themed menu includes some Spanish, Moroccan and Italian favourites, doing justice to its Mediterranean tag.
We start with a selection of six dips served with Turkish bread ($23) and a bottle of Squealing Pig 2010 Malborough Sauvignon Blanc ($38). The dips include the usual favourites of hommus, tzaziki and baba ganoush, but go that extra step with the pembe sultan (beetroot and yoghurt), havuc (minted yoghurt and carrot) and the chilli dip (spicy capsicum and walnut), which was a favourite of our table. The wine list aims to please with enough variety including a few local drops from the Canberra region.
Next we try a selection of the many delicious looking mezze. The Saganaki, which is grilled haloumi cheese with balsamic reduction ($14.50) is crisp and salty as it should be, and the balsamic reduction complements it nicely. The Cigara Borek ($14), a popular favourite of feta and parsley filled filo pastry with yoghurt sauce is simple perfection and the Mini Kofte ($18) – chargrilled lamb mince with aromatic herbs – are juicy and oozing flavour with each bite.
Next we are greeted by the grand arrival of the Taze special one metre long pide (pide price + $5 extra for one metre long). The pide has a more traditionally Turkish thin crust, and is topped with shredded chicken, marinated prawns, tomato, capsicum, onion, garlic butter, fresh herbs and cheese. We cut it up into large chunks and devour the fresh flavours and lightness of what is normally a heavy, oozing dish.
Our next main is a Morrocan Lamb Rump ($30), heavily laden with spices which form a textured crust, served on charred corn, pine nuts and saffron couscous with eggplant jam. The lamb is soft and tender, and the combination of morrocan flavours with the spicy crust and couscous is complemented by the sweetness of the roasted vine tomatoes.
The third main is a paella ($28), the Spanish favourite, done Taze style with lemon chicken, chorizo, prawns, clams and green beans tossed through rice and drizzled with aioli ($28). It is a unique interpretation of a favourite which is full of flavour and flair.
Though we are completely full, it is time for dessert. The Baklava ($11), a must in any Turkish eatery, is full of layers of pastry which remain crisp despite the honey and the classic texture of nuts which give it a nice crunch on every bite. The Creme Catalana ($11.50) is a Catalan take on the French classic Creme Brulee, which has a similar consistency but is baked in a larger and more shallow ramekin. The combination of a creamy and rich vanilla custard smothered in a burnt sugar crust never fails to delight, especially cracking it with an inverted spoon prior to the first mouthful.
It is refreshing to see a new eatery in a Canberra hot spot maintaining such a focus on consumer choice and experience. A cafe by day which serves breakfast and lunch, it transforms itself into a warm and intimate bar and dining venue at night complete with bouzouki players and belly dancers.
Whether dropping in for a drink at the bar, some mezze, or a full scale banquet for a large group fit for a king, the set up is exceedingly accommodating to whatever takes your fancy, making it a flexible yet intimate venue with something for everyone that is not to be missed.
Photography by Chris Whitfield.
