Canberra is in possession of some truly gorgeous Federation buildings, and none more so than those in NewActon, that have emerged following the stunning development that has occurred over the last eight years.
Certainly, walking up the stairs that rise from Kendall Lane into Parlour Wine Room, the sense of occasion is lifted through the building’s heritage architecture and its beautifully lit interior. It is a wonderful approach, and one that readies you for a truly elegant and relaxing experience.
Once you’ve found your place on one of the many antique tables that dot the impressively dominant bar, flick through the Spanish-inspired menu to find some tasty morsels that will amaze you with their subtle though sophisticated flavours.
Don’t underestimate the delicate serving of Anchoas Blancos (marinated white anchovies) with Lilliput capers. Diminutive in size it may seem, but the powerful flavour is beyond expectations, with the capers balancing beautifully with the strong flavours of the anchovies. Simply leaving these by the side of a martini would freshen the palate while complimenting the olives nicely. Certainly, it is an idea that requires further investigation.
While one’s impressions of Spanish cuisine may not tend towards the vegetarian, Parlour has a considerate range of offerings from el jardin (the garden) as an alternative to the many meat offerings. The Queso Tomate y Yougur (Ox Heart tomatoes with mint, basil, house-made labneh) comes drizzled with 25-year-old sherry vinegar that would inspire envy in the most hardened carnivore. Fresh, light and delicious with a deliciously creamy labneh, it’s perfect for a delightful afternoon treat.
Today’s El Pescado (Fish of the Day) comes in the form of a pan-seared Gurnard served with house-made morcilla and smoked potato foam. The addition of the blood sausage (the morcilla) may surprise some, but again, the flavour restrained, and in no way overpowers the delicate white flesh of the fish.
Calamari is the new black, especially when cooked in black garlic Romesco sauce. The Calamare Negro looks simply gorgeous with the addition of delicate purple and yellow flowers and wood sorrel that contrast against the black and crispy skin of the calamari. The dish is a lot lighter than it looks, with a gentle sweetness that comes through to lift the dish beyond the heaviness that one might initially expect.
Feeling truly indulgent? The baked custard (Flan Casero) features home-made puff pastry, blood orange powder and a burnt orange puree. It comes with the pastry pre-crumbled, and makes for easy (and excitable) collection on the fork. With the rich and delicious custard holding all the elements together, the blood orange cuts through flavour-wise. To really treat yourself, opt for a glass of the 1980 Cognac de Grande Champagne. It’s a fitting match for the dessert, but certainly not for the faint-hearted!
In the end, though, that’s the real beauty of Parlour Wine Room: The sense of quality, style and sophistication runs all the way through the venue from the time of arrival through to the carefully crafted menu and the indulgent wine and cocktail list. Without in anyway feeling intimidating, Parlour offers a quality experience, with a sense of fun and friendliness that is as well balanced as the menu.
It’s a wonderful, wonderful thing.
