The Canberra wine region was first developed by a number of CSIRO scientists in the 70’s and 80’s but these days you’re more likely to encounter discussions of politics than physics in the vineyards. It’s appropriate considering that many wineries are closer to the capital than you’d think. Despite being a born and bred Canberran I was surprised to discover it’s barely a 20 minute drive to historic Hall Village from Braddon. Although Canberrans may have forgotten how close we are to Hall, the winemakers of the area are well aware of their proximity.
You can visit the Hills of Hall Wineries as part of their Spring Wine Festival on Nov 2nd and 3rd.
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I was recently lucky enough to take part in a wine tour visiting five wineries who make up the ‘Hills of Hall’ collective. Our first stop in charming Hall Village was Capital Wines who are probably best known for their tongue-in-cheek labels that name each wine after a Parliamentary position. We tasted ‘The Whip’ Riesling, accompanied by gorgonzola cheese (but I will refrain from commenting on the connection between politicians and stinky cheese).
The top of Surveyor’s Hill was once used by Canberra’s planners as it’s barely a stone’s throw to the suburbs of West Belconnen. Nowadays the hill lends its name to the vineyard at its base, where owners Glenys and Leigh run a cellar door and bistro. Leigh makes French style terrines and bakes bread in the kitchen while Glenys runs tastings at the cellar door. Their self-proclaimed ‘eclectic’ approach results in small batches of wine with more variety. This is certainly paying off with unusual wines like the Spanish ‘Tinto’ winning a silver medal just two weeks after bottling and next year Glenys reckons they’ll get a gold.
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At Wallaroo Estate we were lucky enough to have lunch with owners Carolyn Jack and Phillip Williams, who’s name you might recognise from his ‘other job’ as the ABC’s chief foreign correspondent. He still commutes into the city most days to work at Parliament house. Our opportunity to talk shop was a rare treat as Wallaroo Estate is usually closed to the public except for private events and festivals. But, fortunately, resident wine dog Molly is looking for playmates at a ‘Doggy Day Out’ on Oct 26 where you can bring your pooch to the estate for grooming, training, and take a long walk through the vines with a glass of their award winning Cabernet Shiraz in hand.
Down the road, the owners of Pankhurst Wines have a more historic connection to politics, Christine Pankhurst explained that her husband is related to influential suffragette Emmeline Pankhurst. In fact, they have named their two sparkling wines after Emmeline’s daughters: ‘Christabel’ is a sparkling Pinot Chardonnay and ‘Adela’ is a sparkling Merlot. The Adela is favourite at Christmas lunch and we were warned that they usually sell out. I bought a bottle, but it was so good I won’t guarantee I can wait until December.
Our last stop on the tour was Brindabella Hills, where winemaker Michael Anderson has teamed up with Canberra business ‘Fudgemental’ to create pairings of wine with handmade vegan fudge. Ginger and dark chocolate might seem like a strange match for a Riesling but the flavours form an unlikely partnership, simultaneously complimenting and improving each other. I’m sure there’s a political analogy to be made but I know better than to talk politics after a few wines. All I’ll say is that no matter the political landscape, we are always better off when we get to know our neighbours. And the winemakers in the Hills of Hall are closer than you’d think, and definitely worth knowing.
You can visit the Hills of Hall Wineries as part of their Spring Wine Festival on Nov 2nd and 3rd.
For more details email [email protected] or find Hills of Hall on social media.
